I Witnessed The Northern Lights - Lapland, Finland

I can officially cross another Wonder of The World off my Bucket List. I witnesed the Northern Lights last night and they've left me speechless!

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Lapland, Fnland - The North Pole & Nothern Lights

It is -21C/-5F here - I've never felt cold like this in my life! The plane landed on ice like it was normal!

Ivalo, Finland is a tiny village of about 4000 (the airport closed at 7pm - I didn't know airports closed - lol), but my hotel is packed and there are tons of tourists from all over the world here to see the Northern Lights too 

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Denmark - Freetown Christiana

I visited, Christiania, which is known as the 'hippie' community as my host Peter called it. Taking pictures are not advised because some of the activity - Peter even said one of his guests had her phone thrown in the water by one of the residents because they thought she was filming them. Peter said this was only the 2nd time he has been in this neighborhood. So I took this pic at the outskirts of the community which is a nice example of some of the nice street art.

The people in Christiania have developed their own set of rules, independent of the Danish government. The rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests, hard drugs and bikers' colors.

Famous for Pusher Street, where hash and skunk weed are sold, it does have rules forbidding 'hard drugs', such as cocaine, amphetamine, ecstasy and heroin. The hash commerce is controversial, because it's not legal, but since the rules require a consensus they can't be removed unless everybody agrees. 

The dichotomy is that this area is only a short distance from the Royal Palace which is what piqued most of my inetrest :)

Well that's it for Denmark - thanks for being part of this journey. Next stop Lapland, Finland to chase Wonder of the World the Northern Lights again (Finland was my backup plan for Northern Ireland). I never thought I would ever go to Finland but I'm too close to not stop by, and looking forward to being so close to the North Pole and hanging out with a few reindeer :)

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Copenhagen, Denmark - The Royal Palace

Of course I visited the Royal Palace (we were on our way here when we caught the Queen's band leaving the other day) .

The Original Palace burned down years ago and the Royal family moved here temporarily (it wasn't orignally built to be a palace as there are 4 separate quarters),  but they liked it so much they stayed. 

You can't see in these images but the Danish flag was at full staff so I asked my host, Peter, what that meant and he said that means the Queen is home. With a look of disbelief on my face I asked him "What about her safety, doesn't knowing she's home risk her safety?". He simply replied "We don't have those problems here".

My 'American parinoia' had been officially challenged and proven wrong. It's nice to know that all countries don't always have to be on high alert! Denmark is currently ranked the #1 happiest country in the world, and has been several times. Even with some of the highest taxes in the world (currently 60%) and long winters (there's now only 8hrs of daylight since I've been here) they have universal healthcare, universal pensions, short 35-37hr work weeks, legally mandated 4 weeks minimum vacation, & paid maternity and paternity leave just to name a few.

They've even changed their Constitution a few times to stay current with the times (most notably to allow daughters to inherit the crown just like sons). I love the progressive mindset! :)

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Copenhagen, Denmark - Great Host, Great Food!

I usually don't post food pics but my Danish host's kitchen could be a 3-star Michelin restaurant :)I've had food I didn't even know existed or could taste so good - from guinea fowl to pumpkin soup. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day (especially pastries) so of course I asked Peter what the Danish call danish pastries here, and he told me that danish actually came from Austria and Danes call danish 'weinerbrød', which means "bread from Vienna". 😀
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#Yum #EnjoyingTheJourney

Copenhagen, Denmark - The Queen's Band

While walking with my host yesterday to see the Royal Palace he heard music and said "That's the Queen's band!". So we ran through the park to catch them. My host, Peter, is born and raised in Denmark and said he has never seen the Queen's band so this was an exciting impromptu moment for both of us. He looked it up and they were marching from the palace after the changing of the guard because the Queen was home. 

For those who don't know Denmark is a monarchy. Even though the Queen doesn't have any power (the Prime Minister & Parliament have most of the power - similar to Britain) they still respect her. Her name is Queen Margrethe II and she's the first female monarch in Denmark ruling since 1972.

#EnjoyingTheJourney

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!! This is my first time out of the states for New Years and I love it! What do you get when the people in all of the neighborhoods organize the fireworks instead of the city ?.... 360-degrees of spectacular fireworks lasting 3 hours!! These are by far my favorite ever :)

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Refugee Volunteering in Almere, Netherlands

I haven't posted as much as I wanted but my time in the Netherlands is coming to an end so I wanted to post an update. As you can imagine volunteering while working during travels can be exhausting - especially living in such primitive conditions because everything takes 10x longer when there is no electricity or running water.

This volunteer experience has humbled me beyond words - especially being a highly independent type-A who's use to doing everything for myself. For some reason since I was young I've always felt I was inconveniencing others if I asked for help so I learned to depend on me, myself, I & at an early age & just figured out a way to do it myself. But not anymore, I've had learn to ask for help many times, for many different reasons, during this journey. It's tough for me having to depend on someone for a simple ride to the store - not being able to hop in my car and go where I want to go, when I want to go is a huge adjustment, but it's difficult to complain about anything when around refugees who've lost everything. 

For those who don't know refugees are those who've fled their countries (usually due to war) and seeking a new country. There is an unbelievable amount of red tape that goes into finding a country that will give them status/citizenship and most never get it because the governments usually require proof/paperwork that refugees can't provide (it's hard to prove your identity when your house has been bombed & you've lost everything). Madhat, my refugee caravan neighbor, was denied status a year ago, even though he has the paperwork - they kicked him out of the refugee camp so he was homeless until he met Tom/Amal. 

The US has a lot of problems but I've never had to worry about not being able to come/go as I please & I can't even begin to fathom my entire country being there one day and obliterated due to war the next. But I do have a problem with countries, such as the US, creating refugees after obliterating a country then not wanting to help the innocent people and/or kick them out of the US. I don't know why the innocent people always pay the price for their government's decisions. I've had so many conversations reminding those I've met during this journey that the government doesn't always represent what the people want. This administration definitely doesn't represent me which is partly why I left - I needed a break from the madness. There are so many broken/corrupt systems in the US (voting, judicial, educational, IRS, etc) and this last election left me feeling like my vote doesn't count anymore - considering my ancestors died for me to have the right to vote has left me feeling sad and a little helpless.

Not to mention the legalized slave trade that still exists so a lot of refugees have their passports stolen by corrupt governments and sold into slavery. I heard the first-hand story from Madhat & almost fell out of my chair in disbelief. Yes you read that correctly, there is still slavery in almost 2018. So the next time you hear someone say slavery was a long time ago tell them to Google 'Lybia' and have several seats!

On a much lighter note - I made a few videos...

1. My host, Amal, had her birthday party in the teepee next to my caravan. The video shows refugee Yousou, from Senegal, playing the drums (Tom is the white guy sitting behind him & Amal is the tiny lady dancing at the end). It was a freezing 2C/33F so I didn't stay long - lol

2. I was invited to a vow renewal ceremony by friends of Tom/Amal, Sadioen (Indonesian from Suriname) & Andrea (German). They met and married (via arranged marraiged) through their church  and 15+ years later still going strong - I've never met a modern couple who had an arranged marraige so it was great to hear their story. They invited me with open arms only 15 minutes after meeting me and Koen was more than excited to share about his faith. It was an all-inclusive, interfaith ceremony with about 10 couples at a beautiful hotel by the beach. They are dancing to a beautiful acoustic song & also Madhat sung a beautiful Arabic love song to his wife who he hasn't seen since the war. They also invited me to spend Christmas day with them and let me stay at their beautiful home while they when on holiday to visit relatives. Their generosity melted my heart and I'm so glad to have had the priviledge to meet them.

3. Each Friday they have an activity for the kids because the camps don't provide any fun activities (they're run almost like prisons). I know for a fact working with kids isn't my calling but it was nice to see the smiles on their faces even though they live in difficult refugee circumstances. They definitely taught me more than I taught them :)

I didn't plan to volunteer during this journey but I'm glad I did. This is definitely an experience I'll never forget. 

Even though there were days I wanted to quit/leave I definitely have a greater appreciation for the simple things in life. I learned more about the Dutch experience than I ever expected. My selfless hosts made me feel like part of the family daily, and I enjoyed all of the enlightning dinner table conversations.

Also, construction began on Tom/Amal's permaculture project & they're excited to see their home being built and the neighborhood coming to life. It's tentatively set to be completed July 2018. And just to clarify, they aren't a 'live off the grid' family - they sold their traditional house in August to fund this project so living in these conditions is a huge sacrifice for them. Video of the family and Madhat celebrating in the tiny house/hut when they got the approval to begin construction of their project after months of delays...

Well that's it for the Netherlands. Thanks for being such an inspiring part of this journey. 

Next stop Copenhagen, Denmark. I'm not sure what's there but I'm too close not to stop in for a few days to see & I'll finally get my typhoid vaccination and malaria tablets for Africa that I've been waiting months for :)

"Strength does not come from winning. Your struggles develop your strengths. When you go through hardship and decide not to surrender, that is strength."

 - Mohandus Ghandi

Life is a journey... #EnjoyingTheJourney

Arriving in Almere, Netherlands To Start Workaway Volunteer Project

I arrived in Almere (about 20 miles east of Amsterdam) 10 days ago to begin my Workaway volunteer project. I'll be here about 4 weeks helping at the community center (named Karibu) for refugees & also the multiple permiculture projects via my host's non-profit named 'Inspirati'.

My hosts are an amazing couple named Tom & Amal. Tom is Dutch and Amal is Gambian & German, and they have 2 daughters (Yasmin, 15 & Zara 8). Amal's passion for helping refugees is birthed from her own father being a German refugee.

I've always found people who dedicate their lives to helping others are the most selfless, and Tom & Amal are no different. They created Inspirati, 8 years ago in the Netherlands & recently sold their house to move onto the land in support of their permaculture (self-sustaining/eco-friendly living) project. It's cheaper to purchase just the land then add electricity, plumbing, etc. yourself so that's what they are in the process of doing. 

They are currently living in a 600 sqft house that volunteers built for them. Also on their property is a teepee, chicken coup, & 2 campers (I'm staying in one & a Syrian refugee named Madhat is staying in the other - he has been here for 2.5 yrs and Tom/Amal's right-hand for Inspirati). Yes you read that correctly - I'm living in a camper, next to a teepee, for the next month lol :) This is no frills, semi off-the-grid, the most basic of living situations - there is no address, closest bus stop is almost a mile away, no electricity, no running water, & everyone shares the detached shower and toilet (thankfully I stocked up on baby wipes because I'm not quite feelin' that shower - lol). I was drawn to this project for several reasons but the main reason is because of a show in the states on HGTV called 'Tiny House Living'. It's about people getting off the hampster wheel and deciding to declutter & take control of their lives by downsizing & living with less.

Tom/Amal also help refugees seeking asylum so they have dozens of refugees, that have fled their countries, around the city that are part of Inspiriati. My neighbor Madhat fled Syria over 2 years ago after the war and now part of the Inspirati program - his father and son were both killed in the war, and his wife of 15 yrs lives in Dubai, but is unable to leave because she's Palestinian. As you can imagine he and I are having enlightening conversations about the devastation of wars - especially since the US played a big part in the destruction of his country. Despite it all he has the most positive attitude and grateful for the opportunity to be part of Inspirati. He says he now considers the Netherlands his home.

Being here is reminding me of my grandmother who recently passed right before I left the states. She'd perfected 'keeping it simple' in spite of it all, and that's definitely resonating with me now at an elevated level :)

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Amsterdam - Bikes, Bikes, Bikes...

Yes there really are a lot of bikes in Amsterdam, and I'm thoroughly enjoying that the Dutch are avid bike riders. Amsterdam is one of the most bike-friendly cities in the world - there are more than 881,000 bicycles, 4x the number of cars. I've never riden a bike like this in the states.

I wish LA (and most major cities in the states) would take notes to promote more bike riding - I think it'll help with the insane traffic problem - not to mention help do away with our excessive dependance on foreign oil & ridiculous pipelines.

It's a brisk 12C/53F, with intermitent light rain, so it's tempting to stay inside but I'm making myself get out to make sure I take full advantage of being here for the first time :)

#EnjoyingTheJourney

Amsterdam - Van Gogh & Rembrandt

I'd completely forgotten that Van Gogh and Rembrandt were both Dutch until my host reminded me. Museums for both are next to each other, but of course have touristy entrance fees so I opted to go to Rembrandt's house instead. I only wanted to see Rembrandt's masterpiece 'The Night Watch' so it wasn't worth the entrance fee to me.

'The Night Watch' painting is famous for three things:
1. its colossal size (363 cm × 437 cm (11.91 ft × 14.34 ft)),
2. the dramatic use of light and shadow (tenebrism)
3. the perception of motion in what would have traditionally been a static military group portrait.

I was surprised that Rembrandt's house was so close to city center and accessible. He lived and worked in the house between 1639 and 1656, and lived there until he went bankrupt in 1656, when all his belongings went on auction. The auction list enabled the reconstructions of all his belongings which are also on display in the house.

Van Gogh musem is behind the touristy landmark 'I amsterdam' sign so of course I didn't want any part of that. I did learn a little about Van Gogh. Even though he was known for cutting off his ear, he didn't cut his entire ear off - only a small part of his left ear because he suffered from psychotic episodes and delusions which eventually led to his suicide.

He was also close friends with another genius painter, Gauguin, but their friendship ended after Van Gogh severed part of his own left ear.

The most shocking to me was that Van Gogh was unsuccessful during his lifetime, and was considered a madman and a failure. He became famous AFTER his suicide, and basically known as a misunderstood genius. He gained popularity in the early 20th century as parts of his painting style were incorporated by Expressionists. He attained widespread critical, commercial and popular success decades later, and is remembered as an important but tragic painter, whose troubled personality is typical of the tortured artist.

Van Gogh's most famous works are...

1. The Starry Night - Year: 1889

Although painted from memory, this masterpiece depicts the view outside Van Gogh’s sanitarium room window at Saint-Remy-de-Provence in France. It shows the artist’s interest in astronomy and a study made by the Griffith Park Observatory (in Los Angeles) demonstrated that Vincent represented the Moon, Venus, and several stars in the exact position they occupied that clear night. The painting is considered among the greatest works in western art and is definitely the most famous work of Vincent Van Gogh.

2. Sunflowers - Year: 1888

His series of paintings on ‘sunflowers’ rank among the most famous still life paintings ever created. The paintings are well known for depicting the natural beauty of the flowers and for their vibrant colors. This painting titled 'Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers' crushed the auction record for a painting when it was sold to a Japanese investor for almost $40 million in March 1987. The record was broken two years later by Van Gogh’s Irises.

3. Irises - Year: 1889

Among Van Gogh’s most celebrated works are his paintings and prints of Irises and this painting is the most famous among them. Vincent painted it in the year before his death and referred to as the “the lightning conductor for my illness” as he felt his work was his hope against becoming insane. In September 1987, Irises was sold for $53.9 million making it the most expensive painting ever sold. Its record stood for about two and a half years and as of today it ranks 15 in the list of most expensive paintings ever sold if you adjust for inflation.

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Amsterdam - Canals

One of the many beautiful canals in Amsterdam. There are more than 100 km of canals, about 90 islands and 1,500 bridges. The three main canals are Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht.

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Ireland - My New 2nd Home...

I arrived at Dublin airport and my awesome host, Ger (short for Gerard), helped me get on the right bus to Creeslough, Letterkenny (tip of northwest Ireland) - it was about a 3.5hr bus ride.

Just gonna cut to the chase about Ireland...to sum it up if I ever choose a second home it will be in Ireland!

I can't start this update without singing high praises to my Couchsurfing host extraordinaire Ger. He opened his home and made me feel like part of the family. It takes a special person to open their home to a complete stranger, all for the experience of sharing cultures. Ger is a wealth of Irish knowledge and is the kind of host I want to experience in every country I visit. 

Of all the cultures I've learned about, I had no idea Irish history is the most similar to my own Black history. They were treated like second-class citizens, less than animals, strangers in their own country, & imprisoned for no reason by the British for hundreds of years. I knew a little about the IRA because their civil war (Catholic v. Protestant) happened ing my lifetime during the 80s/90s, but I had no idea that the IRA was birthed out of need to protect their own (similar to the Black Panthers). They were not a group of extreme militants terrorizing people, but regular citizens fed up with how the British were treating them. Also, the Black Civil Rights Movement inspired the Irish movement - they used it as inspiration for their freedom.

The civil war is over but there is still tension. Like most people, I've never understood why there's so much hate in the world, so I asked Ger "What exactly is a Protestant and why did the Catholics here hate them so much?” He said that if you're not Catholic you’re Protestant, and as early at the 11th century Protestants were seen as 'evil'. The Republic of Ireland is historically a Catholic country and a large majority of the Irish are Catholics. However, the majority of the Northern Irish have forefathers who emigrated from England and Scotland have been Protestant for almost 500 years. So like most reasons for hate, Catholic v. Protestant doesn't make sense to me either. Just more ignorace of someone thinking they're better than somene else - rooted in ego and pride.

Belfast endured 40 years of virtual war, known as The Troubles. The IRA and other Catholic paramilitary groups wanted to end British rule of Northern Ireland and join the Republic of Ireland to the south. There eventually was a peace treaty so Britain still occupies Belfast which is why they use the British Pound, while the rest of Ireland uses the Euro. 

On the surface Ger and I would seemingly have nothing in common but during my stay I learned we had almost everything in common. That's why I'm so against stereotypes - you simply can't put labels on people - we are all amalgams of history, culture, and upbringing. You're missing out if you think you know someone just by looking at them.

  

I learned so much about Ireland I didn't even know where to start with this update. Here are some of the highlights I experienced in Creeslough, Letterkenny...

1. My first castle - Doe Castle, or Caisleán na dTuath, was historically a stronghold of Clan Suibhne. It's a 16th century castle that still stands (Ger used to play there with his siblings as a kid)

2. Random sheep in the road is a daily regular part of life here - Creeslough is a small town with a lot of sheep farmers

3. Perfecting how to make woodburning fires (it was about 12C/54F my entire stay) and Ger had an awesome woodburning stove in the living room.

4. Seemingly nonstop rain (I think I saw the sun for a total of 10 minutes my entire stay), but it was relaxing and peaceful

5. My first pub - those that know me know I don't drink because I think all alcohol tastes like moldy feet lol :) I don't think it's possible to visit Ireland and not have a pint so after a walk by the beach, I visited a pub with Ger, his sister, and her companion and they bought me a pint of Guinness. For those that don't know the pub in Ireland is called the '3rd space'. If you're not at your house or work you're at the pub. 

6. My second day I asked Ger about the Northern Lights and if they are ever seen here, and he said 'F*ck yeah let's go' - Ger is so awesome! It was at a point only about 10 minutes away from his house. We looked for about an hour (we also tried again my last night) but it was cloudy so we didn't see them - but still exciting to chase the fleeting Northern Lights. So I'll defintely be heading to northern Lapland, Finland instead of Helsinki to see them.

7. No houses #s or zip/postal codes in Creeslough. The local postman knows where everyone lives

8. Patty is a man's name short for Patrick. I was a little confused at first when I heard men referred to as Patty because we usually refer to Patrick as Pat in the states, and Patty is generally a female name. But it makes sense because they usually refer to St. Patrick's Day as St. Patty's Day. 

9. A real-life, modern day King. There's a small island, Tory Island (population 144), or simply Tory, that is an island 14.5 kilometres off the north-west coast of County Donegal in Ulster, Ireland, and is the most remote inhabited island of Ireland. It's visible from Creeslough and kept its ancestral roots so while reflecting a long-standing tradition, a "king" is chosen by consensus of the islanders. The current Rí Thoraí (Irish for "King of Tory") is painter Patsy Dan Rodgers (Patsaí Dan Mac Ruaidhrí), and of course Ger knows him personally. The king has no formal powers, but is a spokesperson for the island community and welcoming people to the island. He's an everyday person and you wouldn't know he's a king if you passed him on the street. I'm not easily impressed but that was a 'wow' moment for me :)

10. My first lighthouse - Fanad Lighthouse. They're obsolete but beautiful to look at along the seashore. This one was converted inside and open to the public to stay at. If I lived in Ireland I'd probably stay there every weekend. 

11. My first warship - Ger is an avid fisher and knows all of the local waters. During one of our drives he noticed a huge ship in the distance. So he pulled over, took out his binoculars and saw that it was a warship, more than likely a Destroyer or Frigate. He pulled up the tracking and noticed the vessel wasn't showing up, nor did it have a flag. So it was a mysterious sighting to say the least.

12. A hurricane - my first weekend in Ireland had its first hurricane in 50+ years. It hit Dublin but turned before it got to Creeslough.

13. Bingo! - yes for some weird reason I've secretly longed to play Bingo most of my adult life and finally got the chance. Well it was Sunday night and the weekly Bingo game in Creeslough was on and poppin' LOL! :) Ger nor I won anything but it was so much fun I kept my card for my travel collage I'm going to make, when I return to the states, to chronicle the events of this 'World Tour'

14. Game of Thrones - for those that don't know most of it is filmed in Ireland. I never got into it when it first came out and tried to start watching it last year but couldn't keep up with all of the characters. Well Ger had the box set of seasons 1-6 and I watched all seasons in a week - I'm now officially hooked on it.

15. Gaelic language - I'd never heard it before and hearing Ger's family speak it was definitly a highlight

Even though I'm over buses, the bus experience in Ireland was pleasant. The bus stop is in front of Ger's house so I caught the 2hr bus to Belfast Airport to leave for my next country. 

Also, all of my supplies came and I'm now fully restocked with a new backpack, hair care, etc. buuuuut I completely forgot about the liquids rule for my flight and I didn't want my expensive haircare products  (a 300 & 450ml bottles) to go to waste so I filled up as many 100ml bottles as I could fit in my 1qt bag - I even 'snuck' in (2) 150ml bottles. I took a chance and put the little that was left in the large bottles in my carryon backpack (in opaque bags, under shoes) but it didn't work- yes I had a temporary lapse in judgment thinking I could 'hide' something from an xray machine - lol :) So I had the pleasure of having my entire 70L backpack searched and had to repack everything (they even tested the bag of backing soda I use to brush my teeth). The TSA agents were nice and I got a chuckle having to explain what my haircare products were - they'd never seen them and spent several minutes trying to figure out if they were liquid or gel. In the end my (2) 150ml bottles weren't detected/scrutinized, but they threw away the little left in large bottles because they couldn't figure them out (ironic since I'd put the exact same products in the smaller 100/150ml bottles). I appreciate airport security since the shoe bomber years ago, but it's a real pain going through TSA because of it. Good thing I always arrive at the airport 2-3 hours early or I probably would've missed my flight.

I was originally supposed to stay a few days but Ger let me stay until my Amazon order arrived. I ordered while in Ecuador 2 weeks prior and it took an additional week after I arrived. So I was in Ireland for 2 weeks, and Ger made me feel welcome each day :)

Those that know me know that I've always kept my circle small and I don't use the word 'friend' lightly. I can honestly say I've made a new friend in Ireland. Thanks Ger! If you're ever in Los Angeles I'll be more than willing to host you as well my friend :)

I also just realized that I left the states over 2 months ago, but it only feels like yesterday. I've never been gone this long and still glad I didn't let fear stop me :)

Well that's it for Ireland. Thanks for being part of this journey Ger and Ireland - you didn't disappoint! 

Next stop Amsterdam, Netherlands. There aren't any Wonders of the World there but I'm too close not to stop and experience it - I'll definitley visit the canals, Anne Frank House, Van Gogh & Rembrandt museums, any other free stuff I can find, & of course ride a bike a much as possible. I'm also going to do my first Workaway volunteer project (3-4wks) - helping a Dutch family that works with refugees and self-sustaining permaculture.

Life is a journey...  #EnjoyingTheJourney


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